Croix de Labrie

2019

Wine Advocate 93-95: Composed of 97% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Sauvignon with a potential of 14.5% alcohol and aging in 100% new French oak barrels, the 2019 Croix de Labrie has a very deep purple-black color. The nose opens with some very classy cedary notes, giving way to a profound core of baked plums, blackberry preserves and blueberry pie with touches of licorice, chargrilled meats, mocha and eucalyptus with a waft of red roses. Full-bodied, rich and concentrated, the palate has wonderful vibrancy for its weight, with a solid backbone of plush, ripe tannins and seamless freshness, finishing long and fragrant. This chateau has been on a roll recently—I am more and more impressed every year.

James Suckling 98: Fabulous aromas of blackberries, blueberries, pine needles and spices, such as nutmeg and allspice. White pepper, too. Full-bodied and very tight with a solid core of fruit and ultra-fine yet powerful tannins. It’s got so much energy and drive. Vibrant at every level. Precise and not overpowering, yet so structured. 97% merlot and 3% cabernet sauvignon. Made from biodynamically grown grapes. This needs time to soften. Try after 2026.

2020

Wine Advocate 93-95: Deep purple-black in color, the 2020 Croix de Labrie wafts out of the glass with flamboyant notions of sandalwood, red roses, ground cloves and cedar chest, giving way to a core of stewed black plums, Morello cherries and boysenberries, plus a waft of bouquet garni. The medium to full-bodied palate has a rock-solid backbone of firm, ripe, rounded tannins and plenty of freshness, nicely framing the muscular black fruits, finishing long and spicy.

James Suckling 98: This is a glorious 2020 with such pure fruit of currants and blackberries, as well as dark chocolate. It’s full and layered and opens in the glass to a lovely layer of fine, velvety tannins that are bright and citrusy. Crunchy. It really opens and shows so many layers. Spectacular. Drink after 2027.

Vinous 91-93: The 2020 Croix de Labrie is superb. Rich, pliant and wonderfully expressive, it dazzles right out of the gate. Inky red fruit, rose petal, cinnamon, cedar, new leather and mint all build in the glass. Silky and plush, with terrific balance, the 2020 is shaping up to be a real jewel of a wine.

2023

James Suckling 97-98: This is very unique and spicy, with white pepper, salt, iodine and oyster shell. Blackberry and black licorice, too. Medium to full body with great freshness, but it’s very structured with fine and chewy tannins, before finishing fresh and energetic. Crunchy. 3.41 pH and 14.2% alcohol. 85% merlot, 10% cabernet sauvignon and 5% cabernet franc. All biodynamically grown grapes. Better than 2022?