Aldo Conterno Barolo Bussia Colonnello

The vineyard “Colonnello” is about 40-45 years old and, to maintain it, the vines are replanted from time to time. The bouquet is redolent of dark fruit and plum, but it also shows a solid framing of iron ore and dark stony mineral. These give the wine greater lift and contoured edges.

2016

Wine Advocate 95+: The Poderi Aldo Conterno 2016 Barolo Bussia Colonnello shows dark fruit intensity, dried cherry, spice, licorice and tilled earth. The wine delivers its aromas in a direct and immediate manner, with menthol and balsam herb fitting into oaky aromas of sweet spice. For whatever reason, I notice the oak more in Colonnello, but this will relax with time. The wine will be ready to drink after the 10-year mark. Approximately 6,000 bottles were made.

James Suckling 96: Very fine-grained with pretty berry, spice, roasted-nut and cedar aromas and flavors. It’s full-bodied and chewy, yet polished and intense. Very, very long.

Falstaff 94: Clear ruby. Complex aromas of rose petals, pickled cherries and hazelnuts. The palate is clearly marked by new wood which at present overshadows, fruit concentration is present but needs time to reach the forefront of this wine.

2017

Wine Advocate 94+: The Poderi Aldo Conterno 2017 Barolo Bussia Colonnello shows good focus, structure and a sharper character that is often the distinguishing factor in this wine. The bouquet is redolent of dark fruit and plum, but it also shows a solid framing of iron ore and dark stony mineral. These give the wine greater lift and contoured edges. This is not the first time that Colonnello is my favorite wine in this lineup, and I suspect it won't be the last.

James Suckling 97: Aromas of dried flowers, dried strawberries, lavender, and hazelnuts. Some roses, too. Full-bodied, chewy and powerful, yet the tannins are polished and very energetic. Lots of them, yet with gorgeous roundness and tension. Tight at the end, suggesting very serious aging potential.

2018

James Suckling 96: A tight nose, but the aromas of dark-red berries and violets are very pretty. Some nice forest-floor notes blend in well. Full-bodied with very well-formed tannins that show both polish and finesse, providing a solid backbone to the wine, but without being chewy. The finish is long and controlled, guided by the super tannins. Excellent winemaking. They got the best out of the vintage here.

Wine Spectator 94: Sun-kissed hay, cherry, plum, iron and tar flavors are the highlights of this expressive red. Dense and firmly structured, with a tightly knit, tannic finish.