Te Mata Coleraine - 2021

2022: Coleraine ’22 harnesses the energy and complexity of Te Mata cabernet sauvignon, on show at its highest level since the first Coleraine in 1982.

The beautiful floral aromas of lavender, violet, plum and blackcurrant, are all in orbit around the wine’s dark savoury core of tightly wound graphite, nori, coffee grounds, vanilla and tobacco.  The palate is intensely concentrated, with a superbright tension building freshness and precision as layer upon layer of fine polished tannins give
pinpoint detail alongside signature, exacting, levels of finesse.

Coleraine ‘22 is a modern reprise of what make’s Coleraine iconic, a wine balancing past and future, heritage and innovation. This is a statement wine, one that lingers both on the palate and in the mind.

Wine Advocate 97: The 2020 Coleraine is seriously structured, dark and spicy, with great concentration and gravitas. The tannins are so integrated and woven that they feel almost imperceptible. This is spicy and resinous and charry, but its fine and graphite and mineral too. Chalky tannins plume through the supple fruit. Very cool. It's exciting, plush, open weave and sensational.

James Suckling 97: A beautiful nose of graphite, blackcurrant, crushed stone, blackberry, bark and sage. Medium- to full-bodied with velvety, structured tannins. Linear onto a wide open palate with so much clarity and length. Mineral complexity sits underneath the wonderfully ripened black fruit giving definition and dynamics. Steady acidity. Fresh herbs and black tea. Pine, too. So attractive now but needs time. 57% cabernet sauvignon, 36 merlot and 7% cabernet franc. Sustainable.

Vinous 97: The 2020 Coleraine is a wine that's going to give and give over the long term with its elegant shape and huge substance. Winemaker Phil Brodie explained that this was a year where Merlot acted like Cabernet Sauvignon, offering depth and richness of tannins, and he wasn’t kidding: the power within the wine and the mass of gravelly tannins coat all sides of the palate. There's intense yet slightly sweet black currant and blackberry fruit combined with cocoa and licorice. The lengthy finish is fragrantly spiced with flavors reminiscent of cinnamon, cocoa and black tea. While silken in the mouth, this conveys an overall impression of muscle and depth. Rather closed due to its youth, but it appears more impressive than the 2019 for its structure and smidgen of extra ripeness (14% in 2020 versus 13.5% in 2019). Those who prefer their classical clarets for freshness and line (e.g., 2010 over 2009 Bordeaux) may prefer the 2019 over the 2020, but the class of the 2020 can't be denied.

Wine Advocate 98: The 2021 Coleraine is a superstar. It's the best I recall seeing on release in recent years, a total "pleasure-dome" situation. Tea tree, oyster shell, lavender, black tea and tobacco leaf burst from the glass. Seamless, polished tannins grace the palate. There is texturally more silk to the tannins here than the Awatea tasted beside this (another great wine, for what it's worth). There are notes of creamy red fruits, cassis and bramble, Asian five spice, black cherry and graphite/mineral skein. The persistence of flavor here is extraordinary; it's detailed and nuanced but insistent in the mouth. The tannins cup the fruit in the mouth. Winemaker Phil Brodie said there are no enzymes or added tannin; it's all from the vineyard. This is a blend of 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot and 12% Cabernet Franc. 2021 was left in barrel a little longer than the 2020 to refine the tannins. I buy this every year, regardless of conditions, and this year I am very smug about that.

James Suckling 98: Redcurrant and creme de cassis aromas. Roses. So aromatic. Stones. Oyster and mussel shell. Ink pot. Lead pencil shavings. Full-bodied but very tight and focused. Linear and long with fine, powdery and chewy tannins. Crushed velvet texture. 56% cabernet sauvignon, 32% merlot, and 12% cabernet franc. More franc than normal in the blend. Terrific length.

Vinous 97: The 2021 Coleraine is refined and understated, maintaining this Kiwi thoroughbred's royal reputation. The blend brings together 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot and 12% Cabernet Franc, although the lifted violets and pencil lead perfume would leave you thinking there was more Franc here. It is a fragrant expression that brings sweetness of ripe, silky fruit without opulence or heaviness. Layers of complex flavor are infused through its concentrated yet satiny core, combining cassis, raspberry, violets, pencil lead, cedar and tea leaf. While plentiful, the tannins are already fine and for those who like to drink prematurely, you could reasonably enjoy this without needing a slab of protein to cope with its structure. The finish is long, smoky and scented.

Decanter 92: Juicy, ripe and hedonistic, expressive aromas, sweet bay leaf character and graphite notes. Lovely plum fruit, subtle cinnamon and much freshness on the palate. Flowing and clean, albeit with an edge of greenness. Weighty and ambitious.

Wine Advocate 97+: The 2022 Coleraine is laden at this stage with the outrageous attractiveness of youth. I mean, it's irresistible. There's raspberry, nori, rose petals, coffee grounds, star anise, salted licorice, sun-dried kelp/nori, warm pine (I know this smell because I was hiking around the Te Mata peak yesterday, and there was a fallen pine tree lying in the sun, and it smelled great) and layers of peppercorns. In the mouth, the wine is so fresh, so alive, with so much energy, but it already is showing the svelte line of this house, this place. With a hint of raw cocoa laced through the finish, I'm sad to push this glass away. It will be the last time that I taste it for a while. A ripper. Excellent. This is composed of 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc.

James Suckling 96: A very elegant young Coleraine with lovely aromas of oyster shell, lead pencil, sweet tobacco, black currant and moss. Very perfumed and expressive. Medium-bodied with fine tannins that are polished and energetic with some citrusy acidity underneath. Some dust to the texture. This is the second highest blend of cabernet sauvignon in the history of Coleraine with 84% cabernet sauvignon, 13% merlot and the rest cabernet franc.

Vinous 94: It wasn't an easy season for Hawke's Bay growers, but the 2022 Coleraine seems to have negotiated the trials and tribulations of this hot season with untimely rains. For classicists, this cuvée remains the closest you'll get to Bordeaux. It is richly aromatic, excluding pure blackcurrant and Cabernet's varietal tobacco and leafy notes, but there's never an overt sweetness, resisting any new world caricature. There's abundant tannin here, providing structure and assuring its longevity, but they are tender in nature, and that's probably a reflection of the team pulling back on their extraction regime since 2020. It's dark, it's intense, it's pure blackcurrant Cabernet, it has just the right amount of dark chocolate bitterness. The oak is a supporting act that provides cedar and Christmas spices but never gets in the way, even at this early stage. In all, this is surprisingly well-balanced. Based on vintage reports, I didn't have high hopes after the superlative 2021 vintage, but the high proportion of the late-ripening, thick-skinned Cabernet at the dry end of the season has ensured it maintains its high standards.