Penfolds RWT Bin 798 Shiraz - 2022 (Lunar New Year SNAKE Giftbox)

The nose is an array of fragrance and intricate perfumes. French oak is apparent, yet not overtly dominating, imparting an exotic spice that complements blue fruits, notably mulberry. There is an earthy depth, with ironstone adding to the wine’s aromatic profile. Layers continue to unfold with espresso and bitter chocolate adding richness, while rhubarb and fermented tea bring a unique edge. The savoury dimension is explored through pepper-crusted beef and fresh fennel notes, alongside a hint of liquorice. A final touch of polished leather rounds out this complex bouquet.

White cherry and cherry pip lead, their fruitiness matched by chocolate undertones. Red and blue fruits come forward — mulberries and red currants — offering a spectrum of berry flavours. These are complemented by grape confection sweetness and the subtle spiciness of pink peppercorns. The structure exhibits both tension and potential; it is coiled, suggesting complexity that will reveal itself over time. Youthful yet layered tannins interplay with fine acidity to ensure each sip is as memorable as the last. A wine that captures the spirit of the Barossa Valley.

Wine Advocate 98: The 2020 RWT Shiraz Bin 798 is a powerhouse of bloody fruit and firm tannin. It veritably explodes from the blocks, showing plum skin, raspberry leaf, blackberry, mulberry, lashings of salted licorice and rendered lamb fat. I am coming to love (in a big and serious way) the Barossa Shiraz' bottlings from 2020—the year was significantly down in yields, warm and dry, and responsible for wines of muscle, density and gravitas. So, too, for this wine. Excellent.

James Suckling 98: This is a wonderful Bin 789 with striking poise, polish and intensity on offer. Show-stopping aromas of ripe blackberry, dark plum and espresso are primal and freshly captured. The palate is rich and lusciously expressed, with a very plush and intense core of ripe blackberry and dark-plum fruit. Roasted coffee here, too. Such poise and polish. Drink over the next decade or more.

Wine Enthusiast 95: This is a strong vintage of RWT. It's austere, dense and still-young but is also seamlessly layered, almost unnoticeably complex. The brambly blueberry and raspberry fruit is woven with plums, dried herbs, spices and florals, with a note of freshly sealed tarmac. The palate is silky and supple, tightened by a muscular line of chalky tannins with lifted acidity and densely packed flavor. A long distance runner, this should be held another few years until around 2026, then drunk for several decades after.

Wine Advocate 96: The 2022 RWT Bin 798 is archetypal Barossa Shiraz: it has red earth, ironstone, mulberry, blood plum, sumac spices and dried herbs in profusion. The wine is earthy, tannic and ripe, with a framing of charry oak. I find this to be muscular, dense, intense and super concentrated, and for lovers of the RWT style, this will likely cement itself as one of the greats. It is a massive wine, well-handled and powerful. It matured for 14 months in French oak hogsheads, 67% new. 14.5% alcohol, sealed under natural cork.

James Suckling 95: Fascinating, subtle aromas of blackberry, cloves and white pepper with some cedar. Medium-bodied with dark fruit and creamy tannins that are integrated and polished. Fine and focused finish. Very drinkable now, but will age nicely.

Vinous 96: This 2022 Shiraz RWT Bin 798 from Barossa Valley has decadent levels of flavors, wound up in a deep pool of muscular tannins that promise a very long life. Bold and expressive, it almost fills the room with tarry, meaty, bloody aromas and a powerful undertow of French oak. A tighter palate follows, with blackberry and blueberry flavors building slowly through a rich, full-flavored finish. Far from ready to drink now, but will reward the (very) patient.

Decanter 94: Unlike many of Penfolds’ elite Shiraz wines, Bin 798’s exclusive use of French oak hogsheads (67% new) presents a significantly different character than its stablemates, being more elegant and rarefied, despite the core ingredient being juicy Barossa Shiraz. While the fruity flavours sing, the silky palate certainly benefits from a more relaxed tannin profile – especially when compared to previous vintages. It makes the wine more approachable now, but certainly doesn’t sacrifice any of its durability or cellaring potential.