Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz - 2021

A flawless integration of the two varietals, neither dominating but working together in harmony. The aroma descriptors deftly match the palate. Flavours of black fruit and red fruit compote abound. Cocoa powder sweetness adds weight to the substantial mid-palate. There are plenty of savoury flavours to balance out the sweetness, with cold sliced salted beef, roast lamb cooking juices and cured pastrami. The tannins are fine, reminiscent of oolong tea, providing plenty of structure. The delicious fruit is married seamlessly with the creamy American oak. A fine seam of acid provides a refreshing lift on the finish.

Wine Advocate 93+: The 2021 Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz is creamy and densely packed with flavor (packed!), and the American oak is a core part of the wine, both aromatically and in the mouth. The fruit is from McLaren, Coonawarra, Barossa Valley, Wrattonbully and Padthaway and comprises 53% Cabernet Sauvignon and 47% Shiraz. The cooler season has imbued the wine with a freshness and levity, which, if you asked me prior to tasting, I would have said it was impossible to imbue levity in the Bin 389! But there you have it. Epic intensity, present oak. Give it time. I have tasted 30-year-old Bin 389s in the past that have still been alive and fresh. So, the cellar is the place for this vintage. 14.5% alcohol, sealed under natural cork.

James Suckling 94: The 'mini Grange', as it is known. Robust, with a core of molten raspberry, blueberry, tea leaf and anise, juxtaposed against something that feels cooler and fresher and compelling enough to reach for the next glass. Very Australian of feel. I have had old vintages of this, some very old. They are inevitably a rewarding experience. The generous oak framework, apposite in lieu of this latent wine's immense potential.

Decanter 95: Baby Grange gets its moniker as components of the blend are matured in the same barrels as the previous vintage of Grange. But with Cabernet Sauvignon the main player (53% in this vintage), it is more a Baby 707, especially as it always benefits from wine originally destined for that cuvée as well as Grange. A beauty of a beast, whose imposing tannin structure and abundantly ripe fruit need time. Powerful, inky blue and black berry fruits dominate the nose and palate, alongside bergamot freshness, earthy tapenade, exotic spices, iron filings and lots of black pepper. Coconut richness from 12 months in US oak hogsheads (37% new) and fine cocoa powder tannins add grip and linger long.

James Suckling 93: A crunchy and delicious blend with currant, blackberry and cedar aromas and flavors. Hints of bitter lemon, graphite and tar at the end. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

Vinous 95: This is a delightful 2022 Bin 389, a blend of 51% Cabernet and 49% Shiraz fruit from McLaren Vale, Coonawarra, Barossa Valley, Padthaway and Wrattonbully. The 2022 is a benchmark vintage - effortless with effusive aromas of cassis, licorice and blackberry topped by a nice touch of graphite. Classically styled, with a firm base of tannins and vibrant flavors that nicely balance the finish that just goes on and on. A little shy right now, but everything is in its perfect place for a long and distinguished future.

Decanter 97: The happy marriage of Cabernet Sauvignon (51%) with Shiraz (49%) rarely looks as cosy or integrated than in this stellar example. A generous mid-palate shows off fine long fruit flavours from the slow-ripening 2022 vintage, with ruddy Shiraz ripeness in step with the more tannic bite of Cabernet Sauvignon’s blackberry and mulberry adding a moreish savoury note. With 36% new American oak hogsheads used for 12 months’ maturation, there’s just enough oak-influenced spice to provide adequate seasoning to the deep, pure flavours.