Bibi Graetz Colore - 2016

Colore is the wine that amazes you. Old vines are able to create truly incredible wines with an unimaginable complexity. Scents of flowers and black berries make you dream, and a soothing taste makes you relax. The perfect terroir together with old vines over 80 years old - are the victorious elements giving birth to this sublime wine.

Wine Advocate 96+: A blend of Sangiovese (at about 80% of the mix), Canaiolo and Colorino from three far-removed vineyard parcels in different areas of Tuscany, the 2016 Colore is something of a pan-Tuscan wine. This ambitious wine gives voice to three of the region's most important red grape varieties as well as its most diverse territories (Lamole in Chianti Classico, Vincigliata near Florence and Siena province in the southern part of Tuscany). As a result, this is a statement wine with a lot to say to those careful enough to listen. It's important to be attentive to the details, the small berry fruit aromas that intermingle with nuances of spice, granite stone and pressed blue flower. Pure summer cherry is the dominant aroma on first nose, but it slowly disintegrates as the wine takes on more air to reveal those lighter and more delicate aromas at the back. This vintage offers an ideal dose of structure matched against freshness. Bibi Graetz tells me that fruit in 2015 was beautiful, perfect to look at. Fruit in 2016, however, appeared more sculpted with more darkness and weight. On some level, those descriptions also apply to the character of these two gorgeous back-to-back vintages. Some 6,000 bottles were made.

James Suckling 98: The aromas are always so complex with cherries, blackberries, rosemary, sage and spice. Full-bodied, very tight and polished with a dense and powerful palate, which opens and grows, yet remains agile and beautiful. A solid red. Wonderful segue from the 2015. 80 per cent sangiovese with colorino and canaiolo. Try after 2022.

Wine Spectator 95: This is suave and expands on the palate, with cherry, black currant, mineral and woodsy underbrush notes. Shows purity to the fruit, along with support from the fine-grained tannins and lively acidity. Excellent length. Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Colorino. Drink now through 2029.

Wine Advocate 96: The Bibi Graetz 2022 Colore sources its fruit from only two sites in this vintage: from 60-year-old vines in the Olmo vineyard (with 400-meter-plus elevations) and 88-year-old vines in Lamole (Chianti Classico). The vines are mostly south-facing, but the elevations are key. Meanwhile, Testamatta comes from mostly cool, north-facing sites. These results show lots of vertical heft and sharp tones with bright fruit, mineral graphite and blue flower. Bibi seeks transparency in his wines, and although the 2022 vintage delivers heavier fruit aromas overall, the wine does offer a pretty textural lightness.

James Suckling 100: Perfection in sangiovese, with cherry blossoms, chalk, seashells, fine sand and violets on the nose and palate. Medium- to full-bodied with focused and poised tannins that are wonderfully integrated and rather endless. Crunchy and chewy at the end. Such presence. You want to spend time with this wine. A top selection from two vineyards Olmo and one in the village of Chianti Classico in Lamole, 60 and 88 years old, respectively.

Decanter 98: Colore is the product of old vines in the Chianti Classico hills, in Lamole and Olmo. ‘Colore is my dream from the beginning of working with old vineyards...the vineyard in Lamole is beautiful, it's THE vineyard in Chianti Classico,’ says Bibi Graetz. 2022 was a hot year and so Bibi decided to only use fruit from his north-facing vineyards. ‘The hot year gives me this material, even if it is up in the mountains, north-facing; the fruit has this kick.’ Precisely sculpted and very intense, Colore 2022 is both pillowy and bright. Dark berries, spice and blood orange are gathered up by a lingering, zesty finish. It's more closed than Testamatta at the moment, but should reveal more of its beauty in time.